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Garnbret dominates to win climbing’s first Olympic gold
Tokyo Olympics Sport Climbing - AP Photo/David Goldman

Garnbret dominates to win climbing’s first Olympic gold

TOKYO (AP) — Slovenia’s Janja Garnbret lived up to her billing as the world’s best female climber.

The 22-year-old Slovenian dominated at the Tokyo Games on Friday night, winning two of three disciplines to earn the sport’s inaugural Olympic gold.

Garnbert finished fifth in the speed discipline, her weakest event, then topped two of three “problems” to win bouldering. She capped a muggy night at Aomi Urban Sports Park by reaching 37 holds to win lead and wrap up gold.

The six-time world champion finished with five points — the total of her finishes multiplied together — to beat Japan’s Miho Nonaka by 31 points.

Japan’s Akiyo Noguchi had 48 points to take the bronze.

The inclusion of speed in climbing’s Olympic debut was met with pushback by most of the competitive climbing community.

The IOC is only awarding two medals in Tokyo, one for each gender, and wanted something fast moving to catch TV viewers’ attention. The decision didn’t sit well because speed is a specialty discipline and including it in the Olympic program was like asking marathoners to also run a sprint if they want to medal.

The theory heading into Tokyo was that the top lead and boulder climbers would stand the best chance by winning one of those two disciplines to offset a low finish in speed.

Alberto Ginés Lopéz tossed that thinking off the wall, riding his win in speed to the men’s gold medal. He also happened to do well in the other two disciplines, finishing seventh in lead and fourth in bouldering.

Adam Ondra, considered the world’s best men’s climber, finished fifth of seven climbers in speed and ended up sixth overall.

Garnbret is a lot like Ondra in that speed is her weakest discipline, but actually had a decent speed finish in the finals, winning two races to take fifth.

Then she showed why she’s considered the world’s best climber.

Blessed with a puzzle-solving mind and the athletic ability to pull the pieces together, she’s won six world championships since 2016. She was the first woman to win two disciplines at one world championships, in 2018 and had a perfect 2019 World Cup season, winning all six bouldering events.

Once in Tokyo, she made the Olympic bouldering “problems” look like playground equipment in qualifying, topping all four in one pass.

Determined not to be shown up again, the route setters turned diabolical for the finals, setting up three problems that sent climbers off like, well, boulders.

Not Garnbret.

She need four attempts, but completed the first boulder and “flashed” the second one, topping it in one try. The third problem was too much for even Garnbret, but winning bouldering put her in the all-around lead.

No problem.

Garnbret grabbed two more holds than anyone else to win lead and prove, yet again, she’s the queen of the artificial wall.

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More AP Olympics: https://apnews.com/hub/2020-tokyo-olympics and https://twitter.com/AP_Sports