Ryuichi Murai is making unprecedented progress on the world's first V17, Burden of Dreams, in Finland. After only four sessions, he nearly stuck the final hold on a redpoint burn, hinting at a potential fifth ascent soon. This feat is remarkable considering climbers like Bosi, Lorenzi, and Iagnemma, who took significantly more sessions and years of projecting to achieve their ascents. Murai's progress is even more impressive as he didn't train on a replica before his trip and seems to be following Iagnemma's beta for most of the boulder.

By the Numbers
  • Ryuichi Murai is making rapid progress on Burden of Dreams, the world's first V17
  • Bosi took 10 sessions on a replica and 14 sessions on the actual problem for the second ascent, while Lorenzi spent around 25 sessions
  • Murai has climbed many V16s, including first ascents of United, Nexus, and Floatin in Japan
State of Play
  • Ryuichi Murai is on the verge of potentially achieving the fifth ascent of Burden of Dreams
  • Murai's progress is drawing attention due to its speed and lack of training on a replica
Bottom Line

Ryuichi Murai's rapid progress on Burden of Dreams, without training on a replica, sets him apart as a remarkable climber and potential contender for the fifth ascent of the V17 route.