Swedish mountaineer Fredrik Sträng and Norwegian climber Sindre Kolbjørnsgard say they made first ascents of three remote peaks in Nepal’s Humla region, including a technical route on a 5,337-meter summit. After heavy snow blocked their original approach, they shifted objectives and completed the standout climb on Oct. 18. Their expedition showcases the region’s potential for technical Himalayan climbing beyond the crowded, high-altitude commercial circuit.

By the Numbers
  • 3 claimed first ascents
  • 5,337 meters: the height of the standout peak
  • M6: the route’s reported maximum grade
  • About 2 meters of snow fell in parts of the region
  • 5 pitches on the peak’s north face; the final summit pinnacle rose 8 meters
Yes, But

The first-ascent claims still need independent verification, and “Daara Peak” is a provisional name awaiting approval from Nepali authorities. Sträng also questions whether reaching every untouched place is the right goal, raising the possibility that responsible exploration sometimes means leaving wild places alone.

State of Play
  • Snow beginning Sept. 24 made the original approach across Nyalu La Pass impractical.
  • The climbers redirected their efforts to undocumented peaks near their base camp at Phendol Kermi.
  • The successful climb followed an earlier retreat as snowfall worsened.
What's Next

The first-ascent claims and peak name await confirmation. Sträng is also developing Last of the Wild, a documentary series about exploration and the limits of entering untouched places.

Bottom Line

Humla offers a different Himalayan challenge: remote, technical climbing at moderate altitudes, with new routes possible beyond the commercial 8,000-meter peaks. The opportunity comes with a responsibility to consider who benefits from exploration—and when a place should be left undisturbed.