At 24, Lauren Berry freed Golden Gate, a 36-pitch 5.13a route on El Capitan, on her first visit to the wall. The ascent took 10 days—longer than planned—and tested her climbing, big-wall skills and resolve through storms, damaged hands and an infected finger. Berry says the experience expanded her sense of what she can do while leaving her eager to keep learning.

By the Numbers
  • 24 years old
  • 36 pitches; rated 5.13a
  • 10 days on the route, from Oct. 14 to Oct. 24
  • 19 pitches climbed on the first day
Yes, But

Berry had the climbing ability, but El Capitan was new territory: she had never climbed the wall, the Free Blast or any pitch of Golden Gate. She also faced big-wall logistics, a lengthy storm delay and deteriorating skin. The ascent was a major achievement, not proof that the route—or the experience—came easily.

State of Play
  • Berry works seasonally as an environmental consultant and funds road trips with her fieldwork income.
  • She wants more women to feel welcome in trad climbing and offers to help them get started.
  • She wants climbing to remain personally meaningful, rather than feel driven by sponsorship or outside expectations.
What’s Next

Berry is considering single-pitch climbs and big walls in Madagascar and New Zealand, but has no fixed plan. She describes her ambitions as a “multiple volumes” book of possibilities.

Bottom Line

Berry’s first El Capitan ascent was as much a lesson in adapting as a test of strength: she kept solving the next problem without losing sight of why she climbs.